Traditional Chinese Attire: Timeless Elegance and Cultural Significance

[Original text]

10·6 A gentleman does not wear dark blue or purple (1), and he does not wear red or purple as everyday clothes (2). In summer, he wears linen (3), which must be visible (4). He wears black clothes (5), a lambskin coat (6); plain clothes, a young deer (7) coat; yellow clothes, a fox fur coat. The length of the outer garment is the same as the length of the right sleeve (8). There must be a nightgown (9) that is one and a half times as long as the body. The thickness of the fox fur is used for warmth (10). When one is in mourning, one wears all kinds of ornaments. If it is not a ceremonial robe (11), it must be killed (12). The black cap (13) is not worn for mourning (14). In the month of good fortune (15), one must wear it for court attendance.

[Notes]

(1) Not to use indigo or vermilion for decoration: indigo, pronounced gàn, is a deep blue with a reddish tinge. Vermilion, pronounced zōu, is black with a reddish tinge. Here it is said that indigo or vermilion should not be used to decorate the edges of clothes worn in everyday life.

(2) Red and purple are not used for everyday clothing: Everyday clothing is clothing worn at home. The ancients believed that red and purple were not proper colors, and that red and purple should not be used for everyday clothing.

(3) A thin, coarse linen garment: A thin, coarse linen garment. This means wearing coarse or fine ramie cloth.

(4)必表而出之：Wear linen clothes on the outside, and wear underwear underneath.

(5)缁衣：Black clothes.

(6)羔裘：Lambskin coat. Ancient lambskin coats were made of black sheepskin, with the fur facing outwards.

(7)麑：ní, young deer, white.

(8) Short right sleeve: Sleeve, pronounced mè, is the part of a garment covering the upper arm. The right sleeve is shorter to make it easier to do things.

(9) Pajamas: Pajamas.

(10) Thick fox and raccoon fur: Thick fox and raccoon fur. Ju, to sit.

(11) Veil and robe: The ceremonial dress worn in court and during sacrifices, made from a single piece of cloth, not cut. Folded and sewn.

(12)必杀之：一定要裁去多余的布。杀，裁。

(13)羔裘玄冠：黑色皮礼貌。

(14)不以吊：不用于丧事。

(15)吉月：每月初一。一说正月初一。

[Translation]

A gentleman does not use deep blue or reddish-purple cloth for the hems of his clothes, and he does not use red or purple cloth for his everyday clothes. In summer, wear coarse or fine hemp cloth singlets, but be sure to wear them over your underwear. Black lambskin robes with black hoods. White deerskin robes with white hoods. Yellow fox robes with yellow hoods. The leather robes worn at home should be made longer, with the right sleeve shorter. Be sure to have pajamas for sleeping, and they should be one and a half lengths. Use thick fox fur to make cushions. After the mourning period is over, the various ornaments are worn. If it is not a formal dress, it must be tailored. Do not wear a black lambskin robe and a black hat to a funeral. On the first day of each month, you must wear a formal dress to worship the monarch.

Traditional Chinese clothing, with its intricate designs and rich symbolism, has been a cornerstone of Chinese culture for centuries. From the vibrant hues of ceremonial garments to the understated elegance of everyday wear, each piece of attire reflects the values and customs of ancient China. This article delves into the nuances of traditional Chinese clothing as highlighted in the classical text, shedding light on the cultural importance and practical considerations that governed the attire of a gentleman.

The Essence of Color and Material

In traditional Chinese society, color and material were more than mere aesthetic choices; they were imbued with deep cultural significance. For instance, a gentleman would avoid embellishing his clothing with deep blue-red or black-red fabrics, colors associated with ritual purification and mourning respectively. Such hues were reserved for specific contexts, underscoring the wearer’s adherence to cultural norms and respect for tradition.

Furthermore, red and purple, though vibrant and eye-catching, were not deemed suitable for casual, everyday wear. These colors, often linked to celebration and opulence, were considered inappropriate for the modest and restrained demeanor expected of a gentleman in his daily life.

Seasonal Adaptations and Practicality

The choice of fabric also varied with the seasons, reflecting a harmonious relationship with nature. During the sweltering summer months, gentlemen would don light, breathable garments made of fine or coarse hemp. These materials ensured comfort while maintaining the dignified appearance expected of a person of status. Notably, even in the heat, layering was essential, with an inner garment worn beneath the outer one, highlighting a meticulous attention to propriety and detail.

Symbolism in Outerwear

The outer garments of a gentleman were not only practical but also laden with symbolic meaning. Black lambskin robes were paired with matching outerwear, signifying formality and solemnity. White deer-skin robes, on the other hand, were complemented by white outer garments, perhaps indicating purity and virtue. Yellow fox-fur robes, coupled with yellow outerwear, might symbolize royalty or high status, as yellow was often reserved for the emperor and his close relatives.

For daily home wear, longer robes with shorter right sleeves were preferred, facilitating ease of movement and practicality in domestic tasks. This balance between functionality and formality is a testament to the thoughtful design of traditional Chinese attire.

Attire for Special Occasions

Special occasions called for specific attire, further emphasizing the importance of context in traditional clothing choices. For instance, black lambskin robes and black hats were deemed inappropriate for mourning rituals, where more somber and respectful attire was required. Conversely, the first day of each month, particularly the New Year, necessitated formal ceremonial dress, reflecting the wearer’s respect for cultural rituals and societal norms.

Even sleepwear was subject to these considerations, with garments designed to extend beyond the wearer’s height, ensuring comfort and coverage. Thick fox and badger fur were used to create warm and luxurious seating, highlighting the use of natural resources to enhance daily life.